![]() Splice the power wires from the non-metallic cable to the power wires on the fixture and secure the connections with wire nuts.Push the old work ceiling box into the 4″ hole and secure it in place with the installed screws.At the ceiling box, strip the sheathing from about 6″ of the cable and push the conductors through the box.Follow instructions provided with the dimmer switch to splice the switch to the power feed and to the switch leg to the fixture.Push the old work switch box into the hole and secure it in place with the installed screws.Strip the sheathing from about 6″ of the cable and push the two sets of conductors at the switch location into the old work switch box.Fish a separate line of the same wire from the power source to the switch location. Fish 14/2 non-metallic cable from the location of the switch to the location of the fixture.From downstairs, use a 4″ hole saw to cut the hole for the new ceiling box.Drill through the top plate of the wall where the switch will be located.In the attic, find the bits to determine if there’s any structure in the way. Send two feeler bits into the attic- one to locate the wall where the switch will be located and one at the location of the light fixture.Cut the hole for the box using an oscillating saw. Locate the old work switch box at 48″ to center off the floor, trace around the box with a pencil and then a utility knife to break the paint. ![]() This might be an outlet in the room, or it might be in an attic above the room. Locate a source of constant power near where the light fixture will be located.To determine the location of the new fixture, find the center of the largest space in the room by measuring from two opposing walls and marking the center with painter’s tape, then measuring from the other two opposing walls and moving the painter’s tape so it’s located where those two points intersect.Before doing any electrical work, ensure that power is turned off at the breaker.This is completely acceptable, although more care is required to ensure both of the wires are securely held by the terminal screw. It will also be necessary to do this for the neutral in situations where there are already 3 or more cables connected. Note that if using ceiling roses as shown in the diagram, it will be necessary to put two wires into a single terminal for the line. One cable connects to the previous light, the other continues to the next light. Here the ceiling rose is shown with two cables, both of which connect to line, neutral and earth with no loop connection. If three, four or even more lights are required to be switched from a single source, the new cable can be extended to as many lights as required. This concept can be used with ceiling roses as shown here, but the same principles apply to other light fittings including downlights.Īs with the other lighting diagrams in this section, the first ceiling rose could be a junction box instead, or could be connected via the 'loop at switch' method. This light will only have power when the first light is switched on, and therefore will work in the same way as the first one. The new ceiling roseĬonnections at the new light fitting are just line, neutral and earth. Loop is not required at the new light, as this is only used to join the incoming power and the switch cable, neither of which exists at the new light. The other end of this cable is taken to the position of the new light. The new cable here is labelled 'light 2'. This diagram shows the additional cable connected to an existing ceiling rose. To add a second light which is switched with the first one, the switched line, neutral and earth need to be extended to the second light. Adding an extra cable to the existing ceiling rose How to add one or more additional lights, so that all are operated from the same switch. Lighting Circuits - Multiple Lights from One Switch
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